When you are learning to sew, especially clothes, chances are you will be sewing from a pattern. A sewing pattern that someone else has created. There are many options out there for sewing patterns. When you are just starting out, I recommend looking at commercial patterns and well-known independent pattern companies first. At least till you know a little bit more about sewing in general. I’ve downloaded many free sewing patterns that didn’t come with instructions and didn’t even say what seam allowance was included. Or if seam allowance was included.
So, here are some considerations when choosing a sewing pattern.
- Form and Function
- Size Availability
- Difficulty Level
Form and Function
Just browsing patterns can be overwhelming. I used to spend hours pouring over pattern books in the fabric store, or later, online just looking at all the options out there.
And now, there are even more independent pattern companies along with the big commercial names.
The first thing I’ll just say is know what you want to sew. There’s probably a pattern out there for almost anything. Though, trust me, I’ve had ideas that there were no patterns for. But I sometimes sew weird things. Like bellydance costumes that border cosplay.
Once you know what you want to sew you can narrow your findings down further.
Size Availability
If you are making clothes, make sure the company makes patterns in your size. Then, make sure you pick a pattern in your size. Most pattern companies will list the sizes available on the envelope (or in the product listing on the web).
Pattern sizing isn’t the same as ready-to-wear so make sure to follow the measurement chart on the pattern.
Be very aware that if there is a fashion sketch, the drawing may not have the same proportions as a regular human, the legs could be elongated. And if there is a model wearing the garment they may be a very specific size.
So use the sketch for the overall appearance of the garment, but don’t expect it to look the same on you. Use this as a guide for specific design details, the structure of the garment (like is it billowy or stiff etc) and whether it has multiple views or design options included.
So, if you are just learning to sew and you want to make clothes, blousy tops or loose-fit pants or shorts will fit more like you expect them to. Probably.
If you are looking for accessories, make sure that the finished result will meet your needs. Will the bag be big enough? Does it have enough pockets? Will your cat actually fit in the mouth of the cubby hole?
Difficulty Level
If you are brand new to sewing, and you want to sew from a pattern, it’s best to choose a pattern that will be easy to sew at your personal sewing level.
Two things can affect the difficulty level: pattern complexity and fabric.
Pattern Complexity
So, first, take a look at the difficulty of the pattern.
Some pattern companies boast of easy sewing or simple instructions or a short amount of time right there on the front of the envelope.
But if they don’t, what makes a pattern itself more difficult? Well, the number of pieces that are required is one. If you look at the back of the pattern and there are a lot of lines on the line drawing, that means there are a lot of seams (unless they are just short lines showing a gathered waistband).
Typically, the more seams, the more difficult.
The more pieces the more difficult, usually. But you can’t usually see how many pieces a pattern has unless you open it. And that’s not always possible. So, really look at the line drawing for the details.
Also, read the description.
A fully lined whatever will likely be more difficult than an unlined whatever.
Set-in sleeves like in many fitted blouses or button-up shirts are more difficult than boxier cuts.
Some notions and their installations might be more complex than others, but don’t eliminate a pattern just because it has an invisible zipper, for example. Especially if you want to learn how to insert an invisible zipper. However do take that into consideration.
Fabric
Certain types of fabrics can significantly increase the difficulty simply because they are more difficult to work with. So pay attention to the suggested fabrics listed on the pattern envelope.
Even if a dress has only 4 pieces, if it’s made out of charmeuse satin, it’s going to be much more difficult to sew because charmeuse satin is just more difficult to work with. So is chiffon.
On the other side of things, some fabrics like denim can be tough to sew if there are a lot of layers like in belt loops.
And polar fleece is pretty easy to work with but super thick and can potentially be frustrating when you’re just starting to sew.
And, just as a side note, most clothing patterns won’t recommend quilting cotton as a suggested fabric for garments. But, if you like the characteristics quilting cotton AND it is suitable for your chosen garment, it can be used. But it won’t behave like a “fashion fabric”. It’s more stiff, and will be harder to do set in sleeves and such.
For some folks, stretch fabrics are more difficult than woven fabrics. But personally, I think that has more to do with the fabric specifically. I’ve worked with some lightweight cotton jersey knits, stretch microfiber and ITY knits that are much more difficult than nylon spandex and heavier cotton jersey knits.
As a general rule, the lighter and slinkier the fabric, the harder it’ll be to use. The more stiff or structured a fabric, the easier it’ll be to use.
Summary
Choosing a sewing pattern that meets your needs is important.
Look at the difficulty of the pattern, the more pieces or seams, the more difficult.
The more difficult the fabric, the harder it’ll be sew.
And make sure that the pattern fits your needs.
And make sure the pattern will fit your body, or whatever you want to make it for if it isn’t clothes.
Size and function still matter.
Learn to sew. Go at your own pace. Learn helpful techniques and tips to make sewing more enjoyable.