Fabric Selection

Hey there! Let’s talk about one of the most fun (and sometimes overwhelming) parts of sewing – choosing your fabric. I used to hate going to the fabric store with my mom (boring!) till I started sewing and I was seeing all the fabric as potential garments. It can be overwhelming looking at all the options. But don’t worry – I’m here to help make this process enjoyable and way less intimidating!

Picking the right fabric can make or break your sewing project. It’s kind of like choosing ingredients for a recipe – you want to make sure you’re setting yourself up for success from the start. The good news? You don’t need to be a fabric expert to make great choices.

In this guide, we’ll explore different types of fabrics, learn what makes them unique, and discover which ones are perfect for beginners. I’ll share some of my favorite beginner-friendly options and even point out which ones you might want to save for later when you’ve got more experience under your belt.

Understanding Fabric Types

Woven Fabrics

Think of woven fabrics like a basket weave – threads going over and under each other in a crisscross pattern. These fabrics are usually stable and predictable, which makes them great for learning.

Common woven fabrics include cotton (like quilting cotton and broadcloth), linen, and lightweight denim. These fabrics typically don’t stretch much, hold their shape well, and are generally well-behaved under your sewing machine.

A word about quilting cotton. You may be tempted by all the beautiful prints and colorful patterns of quilting cotton to make your clothes from. And YES, you can make clothes from quilting cotton. However, what makes this fabric an awesome choice for quilts and other things like tote bags and some accessories also makes it a less-than-ideal candidate for clothes. And that’s it’s stability. We will talk a little more about this in the next section on fabric properties. But just keep in mind you have to match the characteristics of the fabric with the characteristics of your garment AND the techniques of sewing to get the best results with the least amount of frustration.

Knit Fabrics

Now, let’s bust a myth right away – knits aren’t the scary monsters some people make them out to be! They’re actually made like your t-shirts, with loops of thread that create stretch. Some knits, like cotton jersey and ponte, are totally beginner-friendly.

“The key with knits is starting with the stable ones. Cotton jersey (think t-shirt material) is fantastic for beginners – it’s easy to work with and forgiving of small mistakes. Ponte knit is another great option – it’s stable, smooth, and perfect for simple garments.

My personal favorite is nylon spandex which is probably a little more advanced beginner because of it’s spandex content. But some of the first things I was sewing was swimsuits and bike shorts so I know it can be sewn as a beginner.

Specialty Fabrics

While we won’t work with these right away, it’s good to know about fabrics like faux leather, velvet, and sequined materials. These are the “special occasion” fabrics that require more skill and patience. Don’t worry – you’ll get there!

Essential Fabric Properties

Stretch and Stability

Let’s not confuse stretch and stability. You can have a very unstable fabric that doesn’t technically stretch, like chiffon or charmeuse satin. And you can have a really stable fabric that does stretch like a high quality performance knit fabric for activewear.

Stretch

Stretch isn’t just about knits versus wovens – it’s about how the fabric stretches and recovers. Stretch percent is a measurable metric. Some fabrics stretch a lot (like nylon spandex), while others barely stretch at all (like cotton canvas).

When you are first starting out, it’s important to pick a fabric that suits the needs of the garment or accessory you are making.

Stability

Stability is a term that is used to define how “wiggly” the fabric is. A stable WOVEN fabric will have very little give in the cross and length direction and a moderate amount of give on the bias. It could stretch and still be stable. But generally, woven fabrics only stretch if it has a spandex or spandex-like fiber component.

A non-stable woven fabric will distort shape easily. They are more flimsy and much more difficult to work with. Think Chiffon: If you cut a square of it, and breath on it it could distort it’s shape.

Knits, on the other hand, can be described as “stable” if they have less than 20% stretch. However, not all low-stretch knits are easy to work with. When you are starting out, a stable ponte knit, jersey or double-knit without spandex and some heavier-weight performance fabrics like nylon spandex and others are better bets if you want to get started with knits.

Slinky knits, lightweight stretchy nylon spandex, lots of ITY knits, lightweight cotton/spandex jersey, and a few other lightweight stretchy knits are far more difficult and should be avoided at first.

A fabric’s stability affects how it behaves when you’re cutting and sewing. Stable fabrics stay put and don’t shift around much, which makes them easier to work with.

Weight and Drape

Weight and drape, are kind of like stretch and stability. They can be related but shouldn’t be confused.

Weight

Fabric weight is a measurable quantity. Not generally by the home sewist, but manufacturers will weigh their fabric. And often, if you are buying online, the weight will be specified. It’s in grams per square meter or ounces per yard, generally. That being said, fiber content and weave or knit technique will affect the weight of a piece of fabric.

Fabric weight can range from whisper-light chiffon to heavy denim. For beginners, medium-weight fabrics are perfect – they’re substantial enough to handle easily but not so heavy that they’re difficult to maneuver through your machine.

While the heavier weight fabrics might seem easier to sew, they can sometimes get bulky and problematic. And if you are making something larger, they are heavier, by definition so manipulating the project can get tiresome.

Lighter weight fabrics can be lighter because they have a very loose weave, and could therefore be less stable, or they could be light because of the fiber used to make the fabric.

Drape

Drape is how a fabric hangs and moves. Some fabrics are stiff and hold their shape (like canvas), while others flow and swish (like chiffon).

To some extent a heavier fabric will drape less than a lighter weight fabric. But you can really only compare two similar fabrics. For example, a 7 oz denim will have more drape (probably) than a 12 oz denim. And a 12 oz cotton/spandex jersey will drape less than a 7 oz cotton/spandex jersey. But a 12 oz cotton/spandex jersey will drape more than a 10 oz denim (usually).

Fabrics with more drape can also have less stability.

When you’re starting out, fabrics with a moderate drape are ideal – they’re easier to control while still giving nice results.

Take care to match the drape of the fabric to the desired drape of your project. You want more drape in a flowy skirt than you would in a tote bag.

Surface Texture and Appearance

The surface of your fabric can be smooth, rough, shiny, or matte. As a beginner, stick to fabrics with a matte finish and some texture if possible – they hide small imperfections better than smooth, shiny fabrics.

But avoid fabrics that have nap, at least for one or two projects. Napped fabrics (like velour and velvet) add a layer of complexity it’s best to tackle after learning the basics.

Faux leather or vinyl-coated fabrics are not forgiving and can show every missed stitch, especially if you have to rip out stitches. 

Beginner-Friendly Fabric Choices

Stable Wovens

Let’s start with the all-stars of beginner sewing! Medium-weight cotton (like quilting cotton) is your best friend when you’re learning. It’s stable, easy to cut, and forgiving of mistakes. Plus, it comes in so many fun prints and colors!

Just be aware that some garments need less stability than a quilting cotton has to fit and flow correctly.

If you want to make clothes, lightweight denim, shirting, and linen are also great choices. They can be a bit less stable than quilting cotton but still totally manageable.

Friendly Knits

Don’t let anyone scare you away from knits! Cotton jersey is actually beginner-friendly. It’s stable enough to handle easily but has enough stretch to be forgiving. I remember my first t-shirt project – it was a giant oversized t-shirt with a pocket.

Ponte knit is another fantastic option for beginners. It’s stable, doesn’t curl at the edges like some knits, and sews up beautifully. Think of it as the “training wheels” of knit fabrics.

And if you want to make fitted activewear, nylon/spandex with 25%-100% stretch is fine. But you may need a few more tools in your arsenal to get good results so this is a good pick if you are more interested in a challenge.

Fabrics to Avoid (For Now)

Some fabrics are trickier to work with and might lead to frustration when you’re just starting out. Slippery fabrics like silk charmeuse and chiffon can be challenging even for experienced sewists. They’re like trying to wrangle a wet noodle!

Also on the “save for later” list: very stretchy or unstable knits like slinky knits and ITY, sheer fabrics, and anything with sequins or special finishes (like faux leather or waxed canvas). Trust me, you’ll enjoy working with these much more once you’ve got some experience under your belt.

Fabric Preparation and Care

Pre-washing

Lots of advice givers say to ALWAYS pre-wash your fabric. And I have mixed opinions about that. You can read more in this article here about why you might not want to pre-wash fabric.

But in general, you do want to at least pre-treat, if not pre-wash your fabric. This step is like insurance for your finished project. It prevents any surprises with shrinkage or color bleeding after you’ve put all that work into sewing.

Wash your fabric the same way you’ll wash the finished garment. This means if you’re making a cotton dress that you’ll machine wash warm, pre-wash your fabric in warm water too. If you’re using silk, and you are only going to dry-clean (or use a dryer activated cleaner like Dry Cleaner’s Secret or Dryel) or take it to the dry cleaner, then do that with your fabric.

Here’s something to keep in mind. Fabric fresh off the bolt typically has some sort of sizing applied, so it will be stiffer (more stable) before washing. Washing will remove the sizing. If you know for a fact that your fabric won’t shrink or bleed, you could skip the pre-wash to work with the more stable fabric. If you’re not sure about shrinkage or bleeding, you can wash a test swatch. Measure the before and after sizes and note any color bleeding. And then keep in mind, a 1/8” shrink on a 4” swatch will equate to 1-1/8” shrink on a yard (or 36”). And that is significant.

Cutting and Handling

Sharp scissors are your best friends when cutting fabric. Dull scissors won’t work right and at the least be frustrating, and can even ruin your fabric. Longer scissors are usually better for more accurate cuts.

Make sure your cutting surface is clean, flat, and large enough to easily fit your largest piece when cutting. Also, if you are working with fabric that has stretch, don’t let it hang off the end of the surface and stretch out as you cut. I usually just fold or roll it up into a pile at the edge of the table.

Handle your cut pieces with care – try not to stretch them out of shape. If you’re working with pieces that might get mixed up, consider marking them with safety pins or fabric markers. I often leave the pattern piece with them as well. (I almost always need to refer back to the tissue while sewing anyway.)

Click here for a deeper dive into laying out patterns and cutting the fabric.

Care Instructions

Different fabrics need different care – just like your regular clothes. Always check the care instructions when you buy fabric, and keep track of them. Personally, I tend to only buy fabric that is machine washable. I’m not that good at following special care instructions. But you could write the care instructions on the receipt and then pin it to the fabric as a reminder.

Most of our beginner-friendly fabrics are pretty easy care – machine washable and dryable. But it’s good to get in the habit of checking care instructions now before you move on to more delicate fabrics.

Building Your Skills

Now that you understand fabrics better, you’re ready to move on to basic sewing techniques! In our next section, we’ll cover all the essential skills you’ll need to start bringing your projects to life.

Don’t forget to grab some practice fabric before you move on – nothing fancy, just something stable and medium-weight to practice your stitches on. Cotton (quilting cotton or muslin) or poly/cotton broadcloth is perfect for this!