Hey there, fellow sewists! Have you ever stood in front of the thread section at your local craft store feeling completely overwhelmed? Trust me, I’ve been there! And the online world is even more overwhelming! Today, we’re going to break down everything you need to know about sewing thread types, from the basics to specialty options.
Why Thread Types Matter
Think of thread as the backbone of your sewing projects. It’s not just about holding fabric together – the right thread type can make or break your creation and your sewing experience. If you are just getting started, you won’t need an arsenal of thread types. You may only need one or two types on hand. And that will largely depend on what you primarily sew.
There are a BUNCH of types of thread available out there and I can’t possibly cover all of them in depth. So, I’m only going to cover the most common thread types with some honorable mentions of some specialty threads.
Before we dive into the different types, let’s understand what thread actually is. At its core, thread is a long, twisted strand of fibers. Some threads have multiple strands called plys twisted together to make the thread thicker or stronger. Threads are manufactured for specific purposes, many are made for joining pieces of fabric. But, some are simply decorative and some are meant to be easily removed. Simple enough, right? You may be starting to see why picking the wrong type could end in frustration.
Your Most Essential Thread Types
When it comes to everyday sewing, there are two types of thread you’ll reach for most often: all-purpose thread for your sewing machine and serger thread for your serger. (That is, if you have a serger.) These are the workhorses of your sewing room, and here’s why.
All-Purpose Thread: Your Reliable Friend
All-purpose thread is exactly what it sounds like – your go-to thread for most projects. Modern all-purpose thread is typically made from polyester or polyester-wrapped polyester core, which gives it great strength and a bit of stretch.
Looking for quality brands? Coats and Clark and Gutermann are my personal favorites. They’re readily available and consistently reliable. I’ve found that investing in good-quality thread saves a lot of headaches down the line! You can find cheap bulk threads, but I don’t recommend it unless you absolutely can’t buy quality.
One pro tip: I usually recommend polyester for beginners because it’s more forgiving, works well with most fabrics, is readily available and comes in a bunch of colors. However, if you’re planning to dye your project after you sew it, match your thread fiber to your fabric fiber – polyester won’t take dye the same way natural fibers do. So, this may not be your thread of choice if you are sewing and dying cotton or silk.
Serger Thread: The All-Purpose Thread for Overlock, Coverstitch and Serger Machines
Serger thread is different from regular sewing machine thread. Let’s take a look at key differences:
Serger thread is usually spun polyester without a core, which makes it lighter.
It’s typically thinner because the dense serger overlock stitches need to not build extra bulk from the thread.
While it might be tempting to use serger thread in your regular sewing machine (it’s often cheaper!), resist that urge. Trust me, I’ve tried it, and it usually leads to tension nightmares. Some machines flat-out won’t work with it (mine won’t run it in the bobbin at all).
And yes, you can use all-purpose sewing thread in your serger. However, keep in mind that the cones the serger thread come on are wound specifically so that a machine can pull the thread off quickly. Most sergers have a stitches per minute much higher than a standard sewing machine.
Just like regular all-purpose thread, serger thread comes in a variety of colors.
Pro Tip: “Regular” serger thread is like all-purpose thread but different brands may have different weights for their regular serger thread. Sergers, in my experience, are more finicky about thread size and tension. Just switching thread brands can require you to adjust your tension settings on the serger.
There are some “specialty” serger threads out there as well, and I’ll cover them below.
Specialty Sewing Thread Types: When to Use Them
Now, let’s talk about specialty threads. By definition in this article, these are any thread other than the polyester wrapped polyester core all-purpose thread for your sewing machine and regular spun polyester thread for your serger. But, truth be told, some of these are less “specialty” than others.
If you find yourself regularly sewing items that would benefit from these more specialized threads, you may find yourself stocking up on these more than all-purpose poly.
Sewing Thread (for Seams)
Let’s start with threads that are made for seams, but aren’t all-purpose polyester thread.
Cotton
100% Cotton all purpose thread is a great choice if you want a natural fiber. It is used in more traditional garments. And It has a more matte finish (not as shiny) as polyester thread. If you are sewing something cotton and you want to dye it later, this is the thread to use. However, pure cotton thread isn’t as strong as polyester thread and doesn’t quite have the stretch. So, if you need more strength in your seams, stick with the polyester. Also, cotton thread will tend to fade faster than polyester, much like the fabric itself, and can even shrink. It does bring heat resistance to the table so it’s popular with quilters and folks that need crisply pressed seams.
Cotton-wrapped polyester thread combines the best of both worlds: the strength of polyester with the heat-resistance of cotton. This makes it ideal for projects that need to withstand high heat, like items you’ll press frequently or throw in a hot dryer. While it’s a bit more expensive than standard all-purpose thread, you may consider it for garments or accessories that need to stand up to frequent washing and ironing. However, I haven’t found a need to use cotton or cotton-wrapped polyester for heat resistance when pressing. Your experience and preferences may be different.
Cotton threads will have more lint than polyester threads. So, keep an eye on your machine for build-up and brush out frequently if you are using cotton threads.
Silk
Silk thread might seem fancy, but it’s actually a practical choice for delicate fabrics. It creates such fine seams that they practically disappear into the fabric. Silk thread would be a good choice for sewing chiffon, charmeuse satin fabrics, and silk fabrics. And it is great for couture and hand sewing where you need a more delicate looking thread. And don’t be put off by it being silk and fine if you need strength. While it might not hold up to all-purpose polyester thread in strength, it will hold it’s own against cotton, and might even beat it despite it’s finer appearance.
Heavier Weight/Heavy Weight Thread
Upholstery thread is your heavy-duty champion – it’s thicker and stronger than regular thread, perfect for furniture and outdoor projects. And just like with all-purpose thread, you will find heavy weight thread that ranges in size/thickness/weight. So, tex 40 and above will be a heavy-weight thread.
Keep in mind that a heavier weight thread will typically be thicker than regular all-purpose thread. So you may have some tension adjustments to work out when using it. I’ve had issues getting the correct tension running super thick thread in my bobbin on my sewing machine so have lots of scrap fabric around to make some test seams.
“Bag Thread”
You might find “Bag Thread” on websites. You can sew bags with regular all-purpose thread. But you’ll start to notice that there are other options out there. For example, heavier weight threads for more strength for use in “bags”. Though upholstery threads could work just as well if the extra strength is needed.
Wooly Nylon/Stretch Serger Thread
Stretch Serger thread is billed as a thread to use for stretch seams in your serger. The truth is, the seam will stretch if you are using an overlock stitch that stretches (and most do on a serger, but you have to test to be sure). But using a thread meant to stretch can give you some added insurance to guard against popped stitches. You can find “Stretch serger thread” in both nylon and polyester. And it is very similar to it’s cousin wooly nylon.
In fact, I can’t actually tell the difference between wooly nylon and nylon stretch serger thread. Wooly nylon thread is textured much like the stretch serger thread. And because of it’s texture, it looks like it will “pull apart” easier. And, in fact, it can. So, it can be a bear to thread in some sergers.
Wooly nylon is often used in the loopers of sergers. Because it is “thicker” when not stretched, it covers more area than regular serger thread and is great for rolled hems.
As mentioned though, both of these threads are textured and “thicker”, so some tension settings may need to be adjusted to get it to run properly in your machine.
And strangely, I have had some interesting results with garments that I’ve washed where I had used a wooly nylon as the looper (back side) of a cover stitch. That’s the part that does the zig-zag. It appears to have shrunk pulling the two straight stitches toward each other and puckering the fabric between it. So, if you are concerned about this behavior, test on a scrap piece of fabric and launder it as you plan to launder the final garment or accessory.
Quilting Thread
Quilting thread is thinner than all-purpose thread but stronger than you might expect. It’s specifically designed to withstand the high-speed stitching of quilting machines and minimize lint buildup.
Jeans or Denim Thread
Jeans thread is thicker thread meant for sewing jeans or denim Garments. It comes in basic colors and focuses on colors that you often see in the topstitching of ready-to-wear jeans. You can find it in ranges Tex 60 to Tex 100. And in both polyester and cotton wrapped polyester core. So, you can have the look you want with the strength you need.
Decorative Threads
Moving onto threads that are not necessarily meant for making seams. These are decorative threads that you may even pair with a plain white or grey bobbin.
Metallic Thread
Let’s start with metallic thread – it’s not something you’ll use every day, but it can add that perfect sparkly touch to special projects. While beautiful, it does require some special handling. I always recommend using a metallic needle and slower sewing speeds to prevent breakage. The metallic threads I have seen have ranged in ply and durability.
Embroidery Thread
Embroidery thread is another beautiful thread type that deserves attention. It’s typically made from rayon or polyester and comes in a rainbow of colors. What sets it apart is its sheen and strength. It’s perfect for decorative stitching that needs to withstand repeated washing. You can use this in an embroidery machine, if you have one. But it woudl be a fine choice to use with decorative stitches available on your sewing machine for added flare in your creations.
Button and Topstitching Thread
Button and topstitching thread is thicker than regular thread and perfect when you want your stitching to stand out. You can use it to attach buttons. Or you can use it for topstitching or edgestitching when you want a more substantial stitch line to be seen.
Utility Threads
The last category of threads we are going to look at is “utility” threads. These are very specialized threads used for specific purposes. Or, at least, labeled as such.
Basting Thread
Basting thread is for temporary stitches. It’s designed to be easily removed without damaging your fabric, which makes it perfect for fitting adjustments or holding pieces together before permanent stitching. It also can be used for making tailor tacks in fabric when you want or need your transferred pattern marks to stick around a little longer.
Elastic Thread
Elastic thread is a fiber covered rubber or spandex thread. The internet says it’s used in bobbins for shirring or smocking. I personally have not used it though I do own a spool.
The thread itself is pretty thick coming in at tex 100 to 190 or so. And because of that you will likely have to play with tension settings to get the effect you want. Also, just like the rubber in elastic, rubber in thread will break down over time and become brittle. So test a swatch if you are sewing with a thread that has been sitting around for a while, especially if it’s been exposed to heat or sun.
Invisible Thread
Invisible thread is supposedly exactly what it says: invisible. This thread can be nylon or polyester, and unlike spun threads, it is a monofilament. This means there is just one strand of the fiber producing the thread. It’s pretty thin. So, it can pretty easily disappear into your project.
However, it isn’t easy to work with and doesn’t have the same properties as most other threads. For one, it doesn’t knot easily. And it can be kinda pokey against the skin if left to stick out.
Also, because it doesn’t behave quite like regular thread, there will likely be tension issues and a lot of practice to get it to work for you. If I need to do an invisible seam like an invisible hem, I prefer to use a thinner polyester (or even just regular all-purpose) thread and work on my technique to get invisible stitches.
Blind Stitch Thread
Blind Stitch Thread is a more specialized thread than the clear nylon monofilament thread known as “invisible thread”. These come in colors, and are on the fine to super fine scale, Tex 8 to Tex 21, and can be made of polyester, cotton, and nylon (or polyester and nylon).
This thread can be used in a sewing machine, serger or by hand. And it can double as a bobbin thread for applications where you need a lighter weight bobbin thread.
Bobbin Thread
Bobbin thread is designed to be lighter weight than your top thread, which helps create perfectly balanced stitches in certain applications. It’s particularly popular in machine embroidery, where it helps reduce bulk on the underside of designs. If just sewing seams, use thread that is the same weight/size as the top thread becuase it’s easier to get a balanced stitch. However if you are doing a lot of decorative stitching on the surface, this thread might be helpful (along with some imbalanced tension settings).
Kevlar
Kevlar thread provides cut resistance and short term heat resistance. It’s great for seams in workwear or other applications that will stand up to more abuse than typical clothes. Workwear, outerwear, and cushions can benefit from this. It does come in a very limited color range (I found it in a pale yellow).
Reflective
Reflective thread reflects light back to the eye. It can be used for your workout wear or safety gear where a little added shine is useful. To get the most reflectivity it can be used as edge binding. It is a thicker thread and a larger needle is recommended so it doesn’t abrade and break.
Fire Retardant
Fire retardant thread is a heavier duty thread that is manufactured for use in fire retardant clothing. I suppose you could use it in fire retardant accessories as well.
Waxed Silamide Skeins
And, last but not least, waxed silamide skeins are generally used for hand sewing. It’s a good replacement for silk and is made of nylon. It might go without saying that I don’t use them because I don’t do a lot of hand sewing or beading. However, if you do, they might be a good addition to your thread stash.
That’s a Lot of Thread Types
Let me wrap up with some practical advice for beginners. If you’re just starting out and feeling overwhelmed by all these options, here’s what I recommend: invest in a few spools of good quality all-purpose polyester thread in neutral colors (black, white, and maybe a medium gray). This will handle 90% of your basic sewing needs!
As you sew with more colors, and want to match your thread to your fabric, you can add colors to your stash.
And, once (if) you start taking on more specialized projects, you can gradually add specialty threads to your collection.
Remember, the right thread isn’t just about color matching – it’s about choosing the appropriate type for your fabric and project. When in doubt, test your thread choice on a scrap piece of fabric before starting your main project. But for once, all-purpose almost does live up to its moniker. Happy sewing!