Tool Selection

Starting your sewing journey with the right tools can make all the difference between frustration and fun! I remember when I first started sewing – having proper tools helped me feel confident and made learning so much easier. While it might be tempting to grab the cheapest options available, investing in quality basics will set you up for success from day one.

Here’s the good news: you don’t need to break the bank to get started! With a budget of around $300-400, you can gather all the essential tools you’ll need to begin sewing clothes. I’ve discovered that many reliable sewing machines, especially from brands like Brother, offer great features for beginners at surprisingly affordable prices – some even under $200!

In this guide, I’ll walk you through the must-have tools that will help you start your sewing adventure. We’ll focus on quality essentials that you can build upon as your skills grow. Think of it as creating your sewing toolkit – one that will support you from your first straight stitch to more advanced projects.

Let’s dive into what you really need (and what you can skip for now) to start creating your own handmade wardrobe!

The Essential Three

When I think of sewing, I think of three stations: Sewing, Pressing, and the Workbench or Cutting Table (which in my case is the same space). So I’m going to cover the three areas and the essentials in each area.

Sewing Machine

Let’s talk about sewing machines – your most important tool for creating beautiful garments!

Before we dive into specific features, let’s talk about the kinds of machines you might run into while searching for a sewing machine. There used to be just sewing machines available for the home sewist. But today, you can buy industrial machines, sergers, embroidery machines, quilting machine and, of course, sewing machines.

When you are just starting out, you do not need a serger. A well-equipped sewing machine will handle everything you need to get started. You won’t be able to do some things as fast. And some stitches won’t look “the same” as ready-to-wear, but there are definitely passable substitutes for the serger stitches.

While machines built for embroidery and quilting can also be used for making clothes, unless you KNOW you’re going to need one of these in the next few years, you don’t need to make that kind of investment. I mean, some of these cost almost as much as my car.

There are two kinds of sewing machines, mechanical sewing machines, and computerized machines, and not all mechanical machines are old. Though the older machines are more often mechanical.

Some of the main differences between mechanical machines and computerized machines are price and functionality.

Oftentimes, the mechanical machines are a little bit less expensive than the computerized machines. But you tend to get more features on the computerized machines that can make certain tasks easier, especially in garment sewing.

One of the benefits of computerized machines is that they can have more force at lower speeds. That means the computerized machines can push the needle through the fabric at a much lower, and therefore safer, speed. The mechanical ones will rely on momentum to get through tough fabrics. I used to find myself sewing really fast before an increase in thickness just to get my old mechanical machine to keep going through it.

With my computerized one, if it can’t push the needle through, it just stops and then it resets itself. It doesn’t have any momentum to keep trying. So, where I’ve broken a bunch of needles on my mechanical machine trying to force it through thicknesses, I haven’t on the computerized one.

Truth be told, I haven’t used many modern mechanical machines. So, they may behave better than my 1975 mechanical one does.

If you’re brand new to sewing. Another feature that I think is good for new sewists, especially if you’re a little apprehensive about the machine is a slow sew option. I don’t know how many mechanical machines have that option. I do know that a lot of the computerized machines will have a slow sew setting, or maybe a slow speed setting. Some machines may have a dial or a lever that you can manipulate to regulate maximum speed. Or, they may just have a button that turns the feature on and off.

If you’re just starting out and don’t really have the means to buy “big”, you can get a machine that will do the critical functions for under $100. But you may outgrow it quickly.

That being said, if you can swing a little more, you can get some pretty cool features in the $250-500 price range. And not outgrow it for a long while.

You should also look for a full-size machine. Even full-size machines can be portable, if you need that.

Essential Machine Features

There are some machine features that I would consider essential for making clothes. If your machine has these, you can sew almost anything even if you have to manually make certain stitches. (Like a buttonhole).

If you are looking for a machine, these are the must-haves. If you already have a machine, check to make sure these features exist, if not, consider purchasing a new one. (Hint, most modern machines will have these key features unless it’s an industrial machine.)

Stitch Features

These are the critical stitches your machine needs for you to adequately sew clothes.

• It must make a straight stitch.
• It must be able to go in reverse.
• It must be able to make a zig-zag.

The straight stitch is the most used stitch on the machine. You’ll use this in almost every garment you make, even the stretchy fabric garments.

The machine must be able to go in reverse or “backstitch”. This is what will lock your stitches to they are less likely to pull out when wearing the garment.

And a zig-zag stitch will be your go-to stitch for finishing edges on woven fabrics, and making stretchy stitches for knits (activewear or close-fit body suits).

Between the zig-zag and straight stitch, you can do many different types of stitches manually like basting, buttonholes, bar-tacks and satin stitches (like for appliqués). Depending on what you are going to sew, you will likely want far more stitches than just a straight and a zig-zag.

And be aware that some inexpensive machines boast of having 17 stitches, but it’s just using the following adjustment features and combining them with the straight stitch and zig zag stitch to create half the stitches.

One more thing to note, if you are planning on sewing activewear like leggings, sports bras, leotards and such, you will want a machine that has an overedge or overcast stitch. This is essential for making seams that stretch and don’t pull apart or break on close-fit stretchy garments. Do not confuse the symbol for the overedge stitch with the symbol for a blind hem stitch. A blind hem stitch will not work for sewing stretchy fabrics.

Adjustment Features

There are a bare minimum of adjustments you’ll need to be able to make on your machine as well.

• Thread Tension Adjustment
• Stitch length Adjustment
• Stitch Width Adjustment

You’ll need to be able to adjust the thread tension to allow for thickness differences in fabrics, and thread. But also, this is an easy way to create a basting stitch. Note that usually only the top thread has a dial adjustment for tension. The bobbin thread might be adjustable but usually requires a little screwdriver and isn’t a very precise adjustment. In that, there’s no dial or numbering system to know how much bobbin tension you have.

You’ll want to be able to adjust the stitch length. This is how much fabric is pulled through the machine before the needle goes down again. Heavier fabrics often look better with longer stitches. Also, some fabrics don’t hold up too well with a lot of needle punctures, so a longer stitch is good. However, if you are doing a satin stitch or button hole, you’ll need a much shorter stitch. Often, top stitching or edge stitching will have a longer stitch than what was used to construct the garment.

Width adjustment applies to zig-zag type stitches (where the needle goes side-to side). Adjusting the width helps for a variety of stitches. Buttonholes would want a much narrower stitch than something you’d use to finish an edge in the seam allowance.

Again those cheap machines will have a narrow zig zag and a wide one, and a short one and a long one. Then to create a button hole, you’ll use the narrow short zig-zag on the left and the narrow short zig-zag on the right, and maybe a wide but short zig-zag on the top and bottom. That’s 3 stitches on there and you’re limited to the preset settings of each of the stitches. So you wont’ have as much adjustability to accommodate a variety of fabrics and applications.

Accessories

Another thing to look for is the ability to get a variety of feet for the machine. There are a few feet out there that make life easier.

Your machine will likely come with a standard foot to use with straight and zig-zag stitches.

The next most-common foot would probably be the zipper foot. This foot allows you to get your needle way close to the teeth of the zipper, while still holding the fabric down.

Even if your machine doesn’t come with a bunch of feet, it’s good to have the option to buy feet for it. Some use a standard method of foot attachment and others are more proprietary. It’s best to check with the manufacturer on it. If it says something like “click installation” the mechanism may be proprietary. See the sidebar for useful attachments and accessories you may want to spring for, or verify are available for future purchase on your machine.

Features You Can Skip

If you find yourself looking at a machine that is just out of your budget, but has some of these features that look amazing. Keep in mind that for most sewing you won’t need these.

• Decorative stitches – You’ll rarely use these for basic garment construction. Sure, they are fun. I’m going to lump quilting stitches in here if you don’t plan to quilt. And I’m going to add heirloom stitches here too, if you don’t see yourself doing heirloom sewing.
• Built-in embroidery features – Again, like the decorative stitches, you won’t need these unless you specifically want to do embroidery.
• Free-Arm Option – Most machines have the option to remove part of the work table to give you a smaller free-arm. Many resources consider this a must-have. But you don’t need it. In fact I don’t use mine now at all. And I still sew small hems and other things in the round.
• Automatic Tie-on/Tie-off – When starting and stopping a stitch, the recommendation is to backstitch one or two stitches to “lock” the stitch. Some machines now come with a button you can press that will basically do this for you. I literally just discovered that mine has it (I’ve had my machine for over 10 years). I’m still trying to get into the habit of using the feature. I’ve been sewing for 30+ years without the feature, and backstitching is a habit. (In fact I have to really think about not doing it when making basting stitches that I need to pull out later.)
• Automatic thread cut – some machines come with the ability to cut the thread off for you. It’s convenient, but not something you need. It would technically reduce the amount of thread you use because you wouldn’t have to pull as much to get at the threads to cut. Plus the tails would be shorter when starting. I’ve lived without this feature for over 30 years. But if you see it now you know what it is. It could significantly reduce the amount of stringy detritus in your sewing space (a good thing if you have cats).
• Knee lever for presser foot lift – this is a function for the hard-core sewist. In order to sew, you must lift and lower the presser foot. Lifted allows you to put the fabric in and take it out. But the machine doesn’t make a good stitch with the foot lifted, so you have to lower it to start sewing. Having the option to lift the foot with your knee would free up your hands to place the fabric under the presser foot without wishing for a third hand. However, this feature also requires a more dedicated sewing space. The lever would have to go through the table your machine is on. So, it’s not an option if you sew at your dining table.

Remember, your perfect machine depends on what you plan to sew. If you’re focusing on garments, features like a one-step buttonhole and needle down position might be worth the extra investment. The key is finding a reliable machine that matches your sewing goals and budget!

Pressing and Ironing Tools

Let’s press on to one of the most crucial tools in sewing – your iron! A good iron can make the difference between professional-looking garments and, well… something that screams “homemade.” While I use a specialized iron now, there are several excellent options for beginners.

I’m going to start off by saying that there is pressing and there is ironing. I know it’s splitting hairs. But really you can think of it this way: Ironing is used to take wrinkles and maybe creases OUT of your fabric, and pressing will put creases IN your fabric and help shape your garment or finished project. And because of that, there are more tools for pressing than there are for ironing. But they do overlap.

Iron

As much as I hate to admit it, pressing while sewing is crucial for making your finished project look “handmade” in a good way, not “homemade” in a bad way. You will want a good quality iron (and don’t skip any of the ironing or pressing steps in your instructions!)

And, like I said, I use a “specialized” iron, which is a gravity fed iron that has a separate container for water that I hang from my ceiling, you don’t need to go that far, especially if you are just starting out or you live somewhere that you can’t hang iron water jugs from your ceiling.

You will want these features on your iron though.

• Heavy base
• Good steam output
• Multiple heat settings
• Sharp, pointed tip

It might seem like it’s a good idea to have a light-weight iron. But a heavier iron means the iron can do more of the work without you needing to add your own muscle.

And you will likely want steam. A good iron will have a large enough reservoir that you aren’t constantly filling it up. And a larger reservoir will add to the weight when full.

Most irons will have multiple settings for different fabrics. Check reviews. Irons that have good steam output will do so even at lower temperature settings. Some irons don’t get hot enough to really make steam, and they will leak water onto your project. This is not only frustrating but could ruin your project.

And the last feature to really look for is a pointy tip. That will help get into corners and tight spaces when pressing.

Pressing Surface

In order to save your table or countertop, you will want a surface specially for ironing or pressing on.

The most common option the an ironing board that has X-shaped legs and one squared off end and one end that narrows into a rounded almost point.

While they range in size, I would consider this a full-size ironing board.

Here are some things to look for if you have the space and budget for a stand-alone ironing board:

Adjustable Height

Make sure that you can set the height of your board to a good height for you. You don’t want back, neck or arm strain when pressing. Remember, if you have a heavier iron, it’s going to do the work, but moving it about if the board is too high will eventually lead to physical discomfort.

Removable and Washable Cover

I’m not going to lie. There is a very good chance that at some point, you will want to remove your cover, and maybe even wash it. Now, you could go your whole sewing life and not do this. But, if you’re like me, you’ll get something on it you want to wash off. (Can anyone say “fusibles”?). And if you sew a lot, and your cover wears out, you can sew yourself a new one.

Sturdy Base

You want your ironing surface to be sturdy. No one wants an ironing board with a hot iron tipping over and causing injury or damage. Look for wider bases.

Wide Pressing Surface

This need can vary based on what you primarily sew. But for ironing fabric, the larger the surface the better because you have to move the fabric around less when ironing. Of course, bigger does mean more space to store it. So there may be a tradeoff needed.

And that brings me to some space-saving options.

Pressing Surface Options:

While a full-size ironing board is ideal, there are several space-saving alternatives:

• Tabletop ironing boards – Perfect for small spaces
• Over-door ironing boards – Great for apartments
• Wall-mounted fold-down boards – Space-efficient solution

Additional Pressing Tools

There are a few tools or notions that you may want to consider beyond the iron and ironing board.

You can get started without these. But keep in mind some of these options, especially knowing what you plan to make.

Wooden Clapper

If I had to recommend only ONE additional pressing tool it would be the clapper. If you want to make crisp creases in your fabric when pressing the clapper is your friend. I can’t stress enough how good pressing will turn your project from amateur to professional looking. Well, a clapper will help you get all sorts of good pressing results with a lot less effort. And it will help cool your pressed pieces faster so you can pick them up and work on them sooner. Within reason.

Point Presser

A point presser is a tool that has a bunch of points and curves that you can put parts of your project over and use to press seams open in a variety of shapes. I used mine extensively for sewing my form-fitted facemasks during covid. And I use it a LOT when making bags and purses to get into corners. Some point pressers have a tiny clapper as well, but I don’t generally use mine unless I absolutely need an extra one for something. It’s kind of small and needs to be sanded.

Press Cloth

Some folks will tell you that you absolutely need a press cloth. And you do, if you’re sewing delicate fabrics and you need to protect them. OR, if you are using fusibles and want to protect your iron or ironing surface cover. But, for protection of the surface you can use a towel or something you already have.

If you are just starting out sewing, I don’t recommend starting with expensive fine fabrics that would require a press cloth. Just because if you make a lot of mistakes it’s more expensive and heart breaking. But, do get a press cloth if you think you’re going to want it to protect the iron from fusibles. Personally, I just clean my iron after I get sticky stuff on it. Otherwise I’d have to keep track of what side of the press cloth has all the fusible stuff on it.

There are also 3 (at least) different kinds of press cloths. And they are all for different uses. One thing they all have in common is they are very heat resistant. So, if you need one in a pinch, you can get by with some scrap fabric that fits the bill.

Tailor’s Ham

A tailor’s ham is a VERY useful tool if you are making curved things. So, again, maybe not the first thing you buy, but I use mine for sleeves, face masks, bra cups, shaped darts, some pants hems and probably a bunch of other things I’m not thinking about.

Seam Roll

A seam roll is a long stuffed tube that is quite useful for pressing seams open on straight seams. It helps reduce the ridges that can sometimes show through to the front side of the fabric. I also use mine extensively when pressing up hems for my leggings. And I will use it to press up hems for shirts sometimes if I just can’t get the layers to be separate and I need to not crease the back when pressing the front or vice-versa. And it’s great if you’re dealing with long sweeping curves on hems like you sometimes find on shirts and maybe some skirts and wide-leg pants.

Remember, you don’t need every pressing tool right away! Start with a good iron and ironing board, then add specialized tools as your projects require them.

Notions

The third “thing” you need of the “essential three” are specific notions that aren’t for pressing specifically. We can break notions into two sub-groups: Long-lasting Tools and Consumables.

As with the pressing tools, there are some you need right away, and some you may want to get sooner rather than later depending on your sewing projects, and then some that you may never really need.

I’ll cover tools first, and then consumables dividing them each into Must Have, Nice to Have and Extremely Project Specific Probably.

Long-Lasting Tools (or Notions):

I’m calling these long-lasting tools because with proper care and storage they can last a very long time. However be aware that they can break, or distort, or just need to be replaced at some point in the future.

Must-Have Tools

There are 3 tools I consider to be essential if sewing. Though you can probably get away without the third, you really shouldn’t try if you are going to make a lot of clothes.

Fabric Scissors

You will need some way to cut your fabric, and even if you really want a rotary cutter and mat, you should still invest in a good pair of fabric scissors because they will be used for lots of things you cannot use a rotary cutter for.

Look for longer scissors (about 8″). You’ll be able to make straighter cuts with the longer blades. You can also cut smoother curves with longer blades.

Also, look for something with a comfortable handle. You want to be able to fit your thumb and the fingers of your hand into the handle without cramming them in.

The heavier the scissors the more fatiguing using them will be. If you have smaller hands or hand issues such as arthritis, some brands feature spring-loaded scissors. This means you can relax your hand to open them and only have to flex to close the blades.

A good pair of scissors should last a long time. Eventually they will wear out, but you can get a good decade or more out of them if you take care of them.

There’s a thought that you can’t cut paper with your sewing (fabric) scissors. The theory is that it will dull them. The reality is that all scissors will eventually dull, even cutting fabric. There are far more insidious things you can do to your scissors that will make them dull or cut poorly than cutting paper.

Here are 3 tips to keep your scissors sharp:

1. Don’t drop them! For goodness sake, don’t drop your scissors. It’s unsafe. You could stab your foot. But also, when they land, the blades will hit together and could cause gouging of the blade. Small nicks or chunks missing from the blade results in spots that won’t cut through fabric.
2. Don’t Cut Metal! Be careful when cutting out your patterns, if you’ve pinned the pattern to the fabric, take extra care to make sure the pins don’t extend over the cut line. Also, if you are sewing a zipper with metal teeth, and you need to cut the length of it, be mindful of where you are cutting. Try to cut between the teeth. Or, be safe, and only cut the tape with your good fabric scissors and then use an expendable pair of scissors or kitchen shears to do the metal part.
3. Be Mindful of what they are used for. Yes, you can cut paper with your fabric scissors. But don’t use them excessively for things outside sewing. Don’t use them as kitchen shears, don’t cut your cardboard boxes and packing tape with them. Don’t cut carpet. And if you are going to be using really thick paper like tag board, consider using other more expendable scissors. Keep your fabric scissors clean and in your sewing room (or basket or whatever you keep your sewing stuff in).

Seam Ripper

Often, new sewing machines will come with a Seam Ripper. But if your machine was used or a hand-me-down, you may need to purchase this.

And you may want to purchase a new one anyway if the one that came with your machine is not comfortable in your hand.

And while it’s all well and good to think that you won’t need one, it’s really the best tool for the job of seam ripping. And yes, you’ll likely need one at some point.

There are other things seam rippers are useful for, other than undoing erroneous stitches. For example, it’s one of the best tools to remove basting stitches.

Measuring Tape

A good flexible tape measure is important to have for garment construction. First, you will need to measure your body, and that’s hard to do with a ruler or straight edge. But, also, you’ll need something light and easy to read for laying out your pattern, or measuring garment parts like seams or edges (especially for elastic).

Tape measures should last a while. But they are flexible, and with that feature comes the possibility that they will stretch over time. Older models were made of cloth and would deform faster. But even the newer ones could stretch a bit so be mindful of how you use it. When you measure your body, you want firm tension on it, but only enough to take out the slack. You don’t want to pull on it so much you cause it to stretch.

A standard dressmaker or sewing tape measure is 60″ long. Most of the time, this is perfectly adequate. You won’t need much more accuracy than 1/8″. Some have both imperial and metric measurements. And some have the numbers on both sides which is useful to just grab and measure without having to switch ends.

Nice to Have Tools

So, beyond the 3 essential tools, here are 4 more that are pretty nice to have. This is by no means a comprehensive list of tools or notions.

Paper Scissors

You may already have a pair of scissors laying around the house that you can use for paper. And in a pinch, as stated above you can use your fabric scissors. But it is nice to know you have a less-expensive pair of scissors that you can use for paper and not have to worry about them as much.

Small Thread Snips

Thread snips, (sometimes called nippers) are little palm sized, spring loaded scissors. They have a short blade section and are therefore, more handle than blade. They fit in the palm of your hand and are super fast for snipping threads after sewing. Because of their size and shape, they are also more efficient for snipping the threads. They are easier to wield than scissors, and therefore, more accurate when cutting. You can quite easily get super close to the fabric with these without snipping the fabric accidentally.

They are best when sharp, so as with scissors, it’s best to take care of them. Don’t Drop Them! It’s so annoying to drop scissors or nippers and get a little nick in the blade. Granted, a nick in the blade of the nippers won’t affect cutting thread on the rest of the blade, but it could prevent them from sliding correctly together to really cut well.

Needle Threader

A needle threader is a little loop of wire set into a handle of some sort. I’ve seen plastic and metal handles.

The idea is that the little loop of metal can more easily be poked through the eye of a needle, and then it expands to bigger than the needle hole so it’s easier to put the thread through the loop of the threader. Then, you can pull the thread through the needle.

For those of us who need “special glasses” to see up close this is an indispensable tool. It really makes threading needles so much easier. And it might be a tool you upgrade to essential.

The only real catch is that you need to push the needle threader from the back of the needle through to the front of the needle to pull the thread through from the front to the back of the needle.

Seam Gauge

The Seam Gauge is a little 6″ ruler, typically metal, with an adjustable slider on it. It’s typically used for measuring distances of things like the fold on hems, or placement of needles from the edge of the fabric for seam allowance. This comes in handy when you can move the placement of your needle left or right. It could also be used to mark the placement of buttons or button holes from the edge of a front placket of a shirt.

If you plan on sewing a lot of garments this is going to be a tool you will want sooner, rather than later.

Project-Specific Tools

There are some project-specific tools that are very helpful when trying to do specific tasks. So, again, if you aren’t going to be performing some of these tasks or trying some of these techniques, you can likely skip most of these. But at some point you may want one and it’s nice to know that these exist.

Tracing Wheel

There are a few types of tracing wheels out there. If you are going to choose to mark your fabric with tracing paper (more on the paper in the consumables), you will want a wheel that has points on it. It’s been my experience, the sharper, the better, but within reason. The less pointy wheels don’t transfer the marks as easily through thicker fabrics. And that can make things challenging.

But sometimes, when you are doing some techniques, especially in pattern drafting, you want the wheel, and you don’t even use the paper.

The wheels without the points are better used for leather and waxed canvas.

Point Turner

A point turner is a great tool for turning sharp corners right-side out.

It’s pointy enough to poke the corner out sharp, without poking through the fabric or the corner.

Sure, you can use your scissors, but you risk harming your creation.

I use point turners for collars, cuffs, and different parts of the purses and wallets I’ve sewn.

Tube Turner

A tube turner is similar to a point turner, but it is made for turning longer tubes of fabric.

Essentially, there’s two pieces. One that goes inside the tube and one that stays outside. You essentially turn the tube of fabric from one to the other piece of the tube turner.

This is great if you are going to be sewing long tubes of fabric, like spaghetti straps and even wider fabric ties.

Bodkin

What is a sewing bodkin? It’s a super cool tool used to thread something (elastic, string, etc) through something (waistband casing, hood drawstring casing, etc).

There are two main versions of a sewing bodkin. One clamps on the end of whatever you need to pull through. This is useful for flat-ish things like elastic. The other version is a pointy tool with a hole in the end where you’d thread whatever through it.

And yes, you can just use a safety pin. But, the thing is.. if you are stringing elastic through a waistband casing, it really helps to have a LONG safety pin (Or sewing bodkin). The longer the better, so unless you have a 4-6″ long safety pin (that can still fit through the casing and not put too big of a hole through your elastic, a bodkin will be a better bet.

Clear Ruler

Clear rulers are exactly that, rulers that are clear. One of the most common is a 2″ wide ruler that is 18″ long. You can also find them wider like 6″ by 24″ which comes in handy when drafting patterns and cutting strips of fabric. Quilters also use 6 x 6 and other square ones.

They are quite useful for measuring out seam allowances and marking things on fabric. Increments of 1/8″ is fine for sewing needs.

I really don’t think I could sew without my clear rulers, but I also do a lot of pattern drafting and pattern alterations. So, if you are going to get into sewing clothes, this is pretty essential. And while I’m not a quilter, If you want to dabble in quilting, you’ll want to start getting a few of the ones favored for quilting.

I also use them a LOT when placing pockets on purses or bags and measuring for attaching straps or strap holders to bags.

Consumable Notions:

Consumable notions are those little things you need to have for sewing but they get used up or worn out and need to be replenished or replaced. Some of these may surprise you because they seem like they should be on the long-lasting list but trust me, they aren’t.

Must-Have Notions

Keeping with the theme of essentials, these are things you really can’t sew without. And they wear out or get used up so you have to keep buying more.

Thread

This one is probably obvious because you need thread to sew with. And you can’t reuse it if it’s already in a project.

General all-purpose thread works well. These days, most brands have a polyester core wrapped with polyester all-purpose thread. Unless you are sewing cotton (or another natural fiber) and are going to dye it, or you’re sewing really couture stuff, you don’t need a variety of thread types. All-purpose thread works great for all of my projects.

Avoid serger thread when sewing with a sewing machine. Serger thread is actually thinner, usually, and is made so that it can have a more dense stitch. Some machines won’t even work with serger thread in the bobbin (mine won’t) so don’t be fooled by those big spools of thread for less money, you may get more headaches than you bargain for.

Likewise, you may want to avoid the super cheap threads often sold in big spools or bulk because they may be lesser quality. And that means they could break or jam more frequently.

Coats&Clark and Gutermann make good threads that I’ve personally used and have had no issues with.

You’ll want thread to match the fabric of your project. So, depending on the variety of projects you might end up with a bunch of spools of thread in different colors.

Machine Needles

This one may be more surprising. Not so much that you’ll need machine needles, but that you will need to replace them quite often.

First, you want to buy good quality needles, because cheaper ones will wear out faster.

Second, you need to match the needle to your machine. Some machines use their own branded needles and won’t work as well (or at all) if you use a more generic brand. And every needle has a shank style or specification. Not all needles work in all machines. For example, my industrial machine takes a rounded needle shank and my home sewing machine takes a needle with a flat shank. But there are even different styles of shank with flat parts so make sure you get the correct one.

Third, you need to match the type of needle to the fabric you are sewing. Sewing knits with universal needle may not work as well, as sewing woven cottons with one.

Lastly you need to match the size of the needle to the fabric and project you are sewing. Bigger isn’t always better.

As I said, needles wear out and you have to replace them. Don’t think you will save money by continuing to use a needle beyond it’s time to be tossed. Dull, damaged or bent needles can cause all sorts of problems from skipped stitches to serious machine jams that result in your project being damaged.

You will want several needles in a variety of types and sizes on hand for your projects.

As you are just starting out, you can start with a universal size 12 if you are only sewing woven fabrics or super stable knits. And if you are starting with fabric with spandex, start with a stretch needle in size 11 or 12.

Nice to Have Notions

While technically machine needles and thread are the only absolutely must haves for sewing, there are a few more notions that come really close. Especially depending on what and how you’re sewing.

Pins

For example, if you are cutting your fabric with scissors, and using a pattern, pins are quite useful to keep the pattern from moving around on the fabric while cutting it out. I’m not putting pins in the must have category simply because if you use a rotary cutter with a mat and pattern weights, you can skip pinning the pattern to the fabric. And there is such a thing as pinless sewing. And while I don’t sew everything without pins, I do tend to use them sparingly.

Regardless, pins are quite handy to have around whether you practice pinless sewing or not.

Pick the pin to go with the fabric. I love my small sharp pins because they pierce the fabric and don’t usually leave a mark.

Glass-head pins are useful because they don’t melt if you iron them. But I honestly can’t think of a time I’ve ironed a pin. Except maybe by accident.

Hand Sewing Needles

Some things are just easier to sew by hand, and for that you’ll want some hand sewing needles. I usually use what I inherited, because I am very impatient and don’t particularly like hand sewing. And I inherited a bunch of hand needles. But you will want to look for sharps.

Get a variety of lengths because some things work easier with slightly shorter needles and some things are easier with the longer ones.

Bobbins

Extra bobbins are always good to have for your machine. Having matching top and bottom threads for well-formed stitches isn’t as important as having matching thread when you are doing top stitching or edge stitching where the bobbin thread is visible. So, being able to have a set of bobbins that you can fill with all your colors is useful.

Tracing Paper

I mentioned tracing paper when I talked about a tracing wheel. This is the kind of paper that has a color on one side that gets transferred to the paper or fabric it’s pressed against when you run the tracing wheel over it, not the kind of tracing paper one would use to trace sketches with or print out PDF Patterns.

If you are going to transfer sewing lines like for darts, or other pattern marks like the circles and squares on seam lines to fabric this is quite useful to have. It’s also useful for tracing a pattern that you haven’t cut out onto other paper.

If you are going to use it with fabric, getting a variety of colors can be useful. White and yellow often show up better on dark fabrics than red or blue. But I do have a nice red paper that I use for almost everything except red fabric.

Not all tracing paper is created equal. Some just don’t work as well as others, and some don’t wash out as well as others so if you get a dud for your use, don’t despair, and try again.

Fabric Marking Tools

Beyond the tracing paper and wheel, there are a ton of marking tools for fabrics.

Personally, my favorites are chalk wheels, tailor’s chalk and erasable gel pens.

There are several other notions that I have and use a lot and some things I have and use occasionally, and you are welcome to dive deeper into the world of notions with these articles:

Essential Sewing Notions for Sewing Clothes

5 Cool Sewing Notions to Make your Hobby Easier

7 Super Cool Sewing Notions

4 Unexpected Sewing Tools You May Never Have Considered

It’s easy to get overwhelmed so only buy what you need and expand your collection as your needs grow.

Project-Specific Notions

There are project-specific notions that get used up in the project and are typically called out on the pattern envelope.

While I find myself with a collection of each of these, it’s really not necessary to have a stash of buttons, or zippers laying around waiting to be used.

Here are a few things you may see on your pattern.

Interfacing

There are several types of interfacing. You will need to pick the weight and type (woven, non-woven, or tricot) for your project based on the fabric and result you want to achieve.

And you will also need to pick how it is fastened to your fabric. There is sew-in interfacing and iron on or fusible interfacing.

For most projects that I sew these days, I prefer a medium to light weight woven fusible interfacing. It helps the fabric that it is being stuck to retain it’s appearance when it’s folded or moved around. Non-woven fusible tends to give weird wrinkles when you fold or crinkle the fabric. If you are primarily making garments, my current recommendation would be to get woven fusible interfacing.

Some accessories, like belts, do better with non-woven interfacing.

Buttons

Buttons come in a wide variety of sizes and shapes and even materials. If your pattern calls for buttons, they will be specified by size. This will determine the size of the buttonhole being used. Or more likely, the size of the buttonhole that is used on the pattern will determine the size of the button because sometimes you just can’t fit a bigger buttonhole.

Snaps

Snaps also come in a variety of sizes. And they have a variety of application methods, from crimping to sew-on. I’m a huge fan of the kind of snap that is crimped together. But that is a rather large investment if you are only needing one or two snaps occasionally.

Hooks and Eyes

Again, hooks and eyes come in a variety of sizes and even styles. There are the hooks with the loops or tiny bars for eyes. And there are flat hooks and bars typically found in trouser waistbands, and then there are hooks that are found on corsets which have a flared out shape. Most standard garments will either use the standard hook and eye, like at the top of a zipper, or the flat hook and bar like on a tab on a waist band.

Zippers

Zippers might be scary to beginners. But they really shouldn’t be. Well, not all zippers should be.

There are quite a few zipper types. So, make sure you pick the correct one for your project. The patterns should call out both the length and the type (invisible, separating etc.)

But they might not call out the teeth (or coil) type. There are 3 main zipper teeth or coil types. There are metal teeth. These are common for jeans. There are molded plastic, which are super common for bags and casual jackets. And then there are nylon coil zippers. You can use nylon coil for everything from pants to bags to jackets. They are the easiest to sew and therefore are better for beginners to cut their teeth on so to speak.

Elastic

If your project calls for elastic most likely it will call out the width and the length of the elastic needed. Elastic comes in widths of 1/8” and up. Finding elastic that is wider than 1.5” is a little more difficult but not impossible.

You can often buy elastic in packages of pre-cut lengths, usually about a yard or so. Or, sometimes you can buy it off the spool at a specific length. Or, if you know you’re going to need a lot, you can buy the whole spool. But if you’re just starting out, that might be an excessive amount of elastic. If you are buying it off the spool at a specific length, make sure to get a little extra. It’s always easier to have too much than it is to have too little.

There are multiple kinds of elastic and some have very specific uses.

Keep in mind that most elastics have some sort of rubber inside of them for stretch and recovery and because of that they can be challenging to sew with a universal needle. If you find that your needle is pulling the rubber out of the elastic, try using a stretch needle.

Other Trims

Your pattern may call out anything from the above mentioned “functional” trims to decorative trims. If you are purchasing the things you need for your project in a store, and you see something on a pattern you don’t know what it is or where to find it, don’t hesitate to ask for help. If you’re shopping online, google is your friend.

Keep in mind that if you are just starting out sewing, having fewer “new” things to learn how to use or sew the better. You can build on your skills as you sew more projects.

Setting Up Your Sewing Space

Creating an efficient sewing space isn’t just about having room – it’s about organizing your tools and equipment to make sewing enjoyable and productive. Let’s look at different setups that can work for various living situations.

Essential Elements of Any Sewing Space:

• Good Lighting
• Sturdy Work Surface
• Easy Access to Tools
• Proper Electrical Setup

Good Lighting

Natural light is great, but a good task light is essential for detailed work. Most sewing machines have a light on them, but you may find that it isn’t bright enough or in the right spot for where you need it most. And if you are sewing in a room with an overhead light, you will likely cast your own shadow over your work.

Sturdy Work Surface

Your table should be stable and at a comfortable height to prevent back, neck and shoulder strain. I prefer my sewing table to be higher so that I’m more eye-level with my work, but that does put more strain on my shoulders. Probably I should just get better glasses to sit higher and be able to see further. But truth-be-told, I find that if I’m too high, the machine itself is in my way, and I bend forward to look at the area around the needle.

You’ll also want a good sturdy chair where you can comfortably reach the foot pedal from.

Easy Access to Tools

Keep frequently used items within arm’s reach. When I’m sewing, I need my thread nippers and pin cushion right there. In fact, my preference for my pin cushion is one that sits on my wrist.

Depending on what point in the process you are, you may need your cutting or marking tools handy. You may need your iron and pressing tools at the ready. Or you may, like me, need easy access to the seam ripper.

Proper Electrical Setup

Ensure you have enough outlets for your machine, iron, and light. Keep in mind that the iron, when on, will draw quite a bit of power.

Organizing Your Workflow Stations:

When sewing you will need three main areas for work and one for storage. These stations can overlap space to some extent depending on your specific setup.

Cutting Station

Your cutting station generally will need the largest flat surface. You could us a dining table, kitchen island or peninsula or a folding table. Often after your pieces are cut, you will still need a space to manipulate pieces like pinning them together for sewing or marking for buttonholes or threading elastic through casings. Some of these actions can be done next to your sewing machine if you have the space.

Sewing Station

The sewing station is where your sewing machine will sit. Again, it needs to be on a sturdy surface. Ideally, you’ll have space to the left of the machine for the fabric of your project to go without falling off the table. I reserve the right side of my machine for my tools and refreshments. This keeps my scissors, stray pins, and red wine away from my project. No, I don’t recommend drinking wine while sewing. But you wouldn’t want to stain your project with tea or coffee either.

Pressing Station

The pressing station is where your iron lives. Make sure this is a safe space for the iron (not hovering over a bathtub or sink filled with water). But also, if you can make it happen, having the pressing station closer to your sewing station will make you more efficient. Because most projects require sewing something and pressing it, then sewing something else, and pressing it. And even if you lump as many sewing tasks together before going to press, you still will find yourself moving back and forth. If you’re on different floors that will be more of a hassle, and perhaps make you more likely to skip some very important steps. And you never want to skip pressing.

Storage Area

You will want some way to store your patterns, fabric, tools, and works in progress. Ideally, you’ll be able to store them all close to each other, but that won’t happen for everyone.

So, think about your sewing needs, as you know them right now, and know that they will likely change over time as you get more knowledge and skills.

You may want to consider two types of storage: Stuff you use frequently and/or are working on and Stuff you only use occasionally or are for future projects.

Here are some space-saving solutions you may want to consider:

• Folding tables: Can be stored away when not in use
• Over-door organizers: Great for storing tools and notions
• Rolling carts: Mobile storage that can be tucked away
• Pegboards: Utilize vertical space for tool storage
• Portable cutting mat: Can be stored under a bed or behind furniture
• Collapsible ironing board: Many slim designs store in narrow spaces
• Sewing machine case: Makes it easy to move your setup to different rooms
• Project boxes: Keep current projects contained and portable

Remember, your sewing space doesn’t have to be perfect or permanent! Start with the basics and adjust as you discover what works best for your sewing style and living situation. The key is creating a setup that makes you want to sew, not one that frustrates you before you even begin.

Next Steps

Alright, now that you’ve got your shiny new tools ready to go, it’s time for the exciting part – choosing your first project! Whether you’re the type who likes to dive right into challenging projects (like me!) or someone who prefers to take things step by step, I’ll help you find the perfect starting point.

In the next lesson, we’ll explore a variety of beginner-friendly projects that will help you build your skills while creating something useful.

And even if you have already decided what you want to start with, you’ll learn some things to look for to avoid if your are just starting out.

Ready to start making something awesome? Head to the next lesson and find your perfect first project.